My early morning ritual of grabbing a hot coffee from a vending machine started on the day we decided to leave Osaka for the picturesque train journey to Koyasan. While Osaka greeted us with sunshine, Koyasan welcomed us with relentless rain and thick mist—a setting that only added to its mystique. It was on this rainy day that I caught a cold while my friend stayed overnight to soak in a deeper temple experience.
I’ll admit I hesitated about going to Koyasan. Part of me wanted to stay in Osaka, a city I had fallen in love with and wanted to spend more time in. But looking back, it was worth every moment. Koyasan is a place where tranquillity and tradition intertwine, offering something for everyone—whether you’re a spiritual seeker or simply someone who loves breathtaking landscapes. The rain and fog lent the area a quiet, ethereal charm, making it feel like a world removed from the bustle of Osaka.
Koyasan is a small, peaceful town nestled in the misty mountains of Wakayama. It’s not just a scenic retreat but a spiritual haven and the heart of Shingon Buddhism. At its core lies the Okunoin Cemetery, the largest in Japan, with over 200,000 graves resting under centuries-old cedar trees. These towering trees, with their thick trunks and whispering branches, stand as silent guardians of history, their presence reinforcing the deep spiritual energy of the land. Walking through the cemetery, enveloped in mist and the scent of rain-soaked earth, felt like stepping into a sacred, timeless realm.
Among Koyasan’s ancient cedars, one pair stood out—the two cedar trees near Kiyotaka Inari Shrine. Unlike the others, these trees do not merely grow side by side; instead, they meet near their tops, intertwining as if reaching for one another across time. A natural phenomenon that feels almost deliberate, as if the forest itself understands the importance of connection. This rare sight embodies harmony, unity, and bonds that transcend the physical world. Standing beneath them, I couldn’t help but feel a quiet reverence, as if they whispered an age-old secret only those who truly listen can hear.
Currently, Koyasan is home to 117 temples, each offering a blend of spiritual retreat, cultural immersion, and stunning architecture. During our visit, one temple stood out—not for its beauty but for the unexpected challenge it posed. It confronted both me and my friend with a fear we hadn’t realized we harbored. I couldn’t quite overcome it, but she did, and her triumph left me with a profound lesson: in life, we often give up just steps away from success. Sometimes, all it takes is one more step to discover what’s on the other side. The same thing happened to me, with only 2 steps to go I told her I couldn't do it anymore and we swapped places, she walked in front and I walked behind her... So don’t give up! (I know you are very curious about what it was—for a short story—it was a very short, probably just about four meters, including two turns to the left, walk in the underground of one of the temples. We did not know what was waiting in the front or how long the walk would be. Some sculptures were there as well, and I can tell you that walking in complete darkness, being the first to go in without knowing what to expect, was the scariest thing I can remember from my entire life—most probably influenced by too many movies!)
Aside from its spiritual allure, Koyasan introduced me to some unforgettable culinary delights. Here, I tried my first sake-manjyu mochi—fresh mochi filled with red bean paste and infused with sake. It was mind-blowing! The delicate sweetness and the faint hint of sake created a flavor I’ll never forget. I also had my first bowl of ramen at a cozy local restaurant, where the experience was made even better with complimentary tea.
One delightful surprise was hearing how beautifully the Japanese pronounced my name effortlessly and without any issues. It was such a small thing, yet it filled me with joy and made me feel unexpectedly at home.
Koyasan, even on a cold and rainy day, left a lasting impression. It’s a place of reflection, beauty, and discovery—both of the world and of oneself. Oh, and if you go for a walk in the forest or in the cemetery at night—be careful. You may see a bear.
Day's expenses: ~ 49 eur (plus hotel in Osaka)
3650 YEN (~23 Eur) return ticket from Osaka to Kayosan by train
1550 YEN (~ 10 Eur) Entrances to temples and donations
800 YEN (~5 Eur) Macha tea and mochi breaks
790 YEN ~5 Eur) Ramen for lunch
894 YEN (~6 Eur) dinner from a convenience shop
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